There is no night cruising on the Douro, so the Torgil left the dock sometime before we woke up in the morning. When we got up, we were already going through the first lock. We didn’t see much of it. After breakfast, we watched the river go by until we got to Regua where William disembarked to join an excursion to the Mateus Palace and to a vineyard at Quinta do Seixo. Elaine was tired of buses, and needed to rest her weary ankle so she stayed on the vessel to enjoy cruising the river.
After breakfast we enjoyed the scenery along the river.
This is the Aquavit Terrace on the third deck, which is currently abandoned due to the cool, wet weather. The Torgil’s lounge is behind the glass windows, and the Sun Deck is up above. That’s where the wheelhouse is, which you can see peeking over the rail.
Entering the second lock on the Douro River, the Carrapatelo Lock. It is the deepest single lock in Europe. All of the Douro locks are parts of hydroelectric dams, and you can see parts of the dam to the right.
Here you get a sense of just how deep this lock is.
At last we are closed in the lock, and they are letting water in from the upstream side.
Almost ready to exit the lock.
Yet another beautiful hillside with terraces.
Here is the beginning of lock number three.
William missed this lock because he was on a shore excursion.
All of the locks are tight fits for our vessel, the Viking Torgil
Exiting the third lock.
Hydroelectric infrastructure at the locks.
Another cruise vessel plying the Douro.
Below is a video of Carrapatelo lock mechanism. To review, this is the deepest single lock in Europe.
Meanwhile, William’s excursion took him to the Mateus Palace and to a vineyard at Quinta do Seixo. The palace is a beautiful old mansion, whose likeness and name are licensed to the Mateus Rosé manufacturer, a purveyor of cheap but popular wine, in pretty bottles. After the licensing deal went through, family members realized their good name was being dragged through the dirt, because of the association with the cruddy wine. They tried to revoke the license but failed. Now they sell Mateus Rosé in the palace gift store, at a steep mark-up. William resisted buying any.
The Mateus Palace.
Do you feel like you need some rosé?
Entrance to the palace, between the two wings
In the carriage house, there was a display of whimsical musical scores. Most of the whimsy went over William’s head, but he got this one and liked it.
Beautiful octagonal chestnut ceiling.
The Mateus family collected things, including these ecclesiastic vestments.
The Mateus Palace library.
The famous two-volume illustrated 1816 edition of LuÃs de Camões poetry, produced to celebrate the successful expulsion of Napoleon’s troops from Portugal, in 1808. The irony, according to our tour guide, was that the book was printed in Paris.
The Mateus gardens are also famous. It’s wintertime, so they aren’t looking their best.
A fun creepy passage through some trees.
A muddy trail under some low hanging grape arbors.
Donkeys! Our tour guide told me they effectively mow and weed the vineyard.
Crepe myrtle in the Mateus garden
After William visited the Mateus Palace, his tour group went to a winery at the Quinta do Seixo vineyard, run by the Sandemans company. He got a little tour and a tasting opportunity and bought some delicious ruby port.
